October 5, 2022
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The watch trade had been getting ready to restart in-person occasions this yr. However as circumstances of the Covid-19 Omicron variant spiked, LVMH Watch Week in Geneva, which had been scheduled to start Monday, was rescheduled as a web-based program — and the remainder of the early 2022 calendar grew to become unsure.

Not that the pandemic is affecting the trade’s efficiency: Exports now exceed 2019 levels, based on the Federation of the Swiss Watch Business, and in November Switzerland recorded its largest month-to-month export figures since October 2014. Consequently, manufacturers proceed introducing new fashions. Listed below are 14 items, contemporary to market.

The Entrance-Runners

It’s too early within the yr to find out whether or not any of the January releases will outline 2022 watchmaking, however listed here are 4 contenders from a few of the world’s most in-demand manufacturers.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny 39 mm Ref. 16202

Value on utility

The story of the Royal Oak Jumbo is watch world historical past. When Gerald Genta’s octagonal-bezel design was launched in 1972, it was the world’s first luxurious stainless-steel sports activities watch. Fifty years on, its anniversary kicks in with the Ref. 16202, which by most accounts is a substitute for the discontinued — but nonetheless vastly fascinating — Ref. 15202. Its first variation is that this 18-karat pink gold piece, distinguished from the older mannequin solely by its motion, the brand new Calibre 7121. In an surprising transfer, Audemars Piguet’s next-generation ultrathin computerized isn’t any thinner than its precursor, however the brand new watch’s energy reserve has elevated to 55 hours from 40, and the model has mentioned it’s extra correct. As with each Royal Oak mannequin due for launch this yr, there’s a particular Fiftieth-anniversary rotor, seen right here via the sapphire case again.

TAG Heuer Autavia sixtieth Anniversary Flyback Chronograph


Mixed product names have develop into so frequent — Netflix, Verizon, even Brexit — that the wit within the Nineteen Thirties Heuer invention “Autavia” barely registers now. Initially coined for a rally automotive dashboard stopwatch, the title introduced the “car” and “aviation” worlds collectively. In 1962, it was adopted by Jack Heuer, a eager rally driver, for his first wristwatch as the corporate’s boss. It might be the model’s keystone mannequin till 1985, when the corporate was reinvented as TAG Heuer. Sixty years on from that first wristwatch, the reborn Autavia shouldn’t be fairly as acquainted as TAG Heuer’s Carrera, but it surely retains a loyal following. The Autavia’s trio of anniversary designs consists of this 42-millimeter, silver-dial piece, the primary that includes the brand new Heuer 02 COSC Flyback motion, which has a chronograph that may be reset and restarted with a single button push. The anniversary set additionally features a black DLC, or diamond-like coating, variation and a GMT mannequin.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Gentle Up

From $3,000

The Parisian luxurious home returned to its linked watch idea for the third time earlier this month with the Tambour Horizon Gentle Up. Its bespoke working system presents an array of always-on personalization choices, a few of which set off the 24 LED lights that sit behind the watch’s Monogram Ring in a form of mini-disco ball of shade (therefore the title). Simply as singular is Louis Vuitton’s determination to not market the machine as a well being and health gizmo. As an alternative, it invitations wearers to customise their dials with their initials and to swipe left for airline boarding passes and entry to 30 world metropolis guides. At 44 millimeters, the mannequin shouldn’t be small, however the engineered curved sapphire glass display screen by some means makes it really feel extra wearable than its dimension would counsel.

Zenith Defy Skyline


Zenith first used the title Defi for a pocket watch in 1902 and Defy for a wristwatch in 1969. And but items akin to this new Defy Skyline, with its distinctly industrial silhouette and 12-sided bezel, nonetheless feels faintly experimental — avant-garde, even. The Skyline fashions are outlined by the repeating four-point star motif that punctuates their dials, and by the small seconds at 9 o’clock. It whips via a full 360 levels as soon as each 10 seconds, powered by a brand new model of Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero motion, which initially was designed as a chronograph. Although it beats quickly, the automated has a 60-hour energy reserve. The watch comes on a faceted bracelet, and with a spare rubber strap detailed with a starry sky motif.


Grouping luxurious watches by development generally is a idiot’s sport as most are designed for longevity. Even so, it’s clear that sports activities watches on metallic bracelets stay common, as does the liberal use of shade. But there nonetheless is room for items highlighting the zodiac or lunar calendar, and for high-end problems and spectacular watches which can be artworks as a lot as timekeepers.

Hublot Huge Bang Integral Time Solely


Till two years in the past it had nearly handed unnoticed that Hublot, a model that has supercharged the sports activities watch class because the introduction of the Huge Bang in 2005, had by no means executed a bracelet watch. However the introduction in 2020 of the Huge Bang Integral chronograph modified all that and shortly proved to Hublot that it had been lacking a trick. Now it presents this Time Solely iteration, seen right here in yellow gold, a 40-millimeter three-hand sports activities watch, with a date. New although it’s, it seems to be prefer it may have been in Hublot’s assortment for years.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Excessive Jewelry

Value on utility

The Italian and Swiss minds at work in Bulgari’s watchmaking division have delivered a stream of record-breaking ultrathin watches within the Octo Finissimo line. And now the model has condensed 105 parts right into a mechanical motion that’s solely 12.3 millimeters extensive and a pair of.5 millimeters thick, and that weighs simply 1.3 grams, roughly the identical as half a penny. Given the title Piccolissimo, the Calibre BVL100 has been hidden within the head of the Serpenti Misteriosi secret watch, right here embellished with turquoises, rubellites and 724 diamonds.

Dior Grand Bal Toile de Jouy


Dior’s watchmaking endeavors have lengthy been targeted on low-volume collections with hyperlinks to couture and haute joaillerie. This 36-millimeter metal, pink gold and diamond watch takes its cues from the model’s signature toile de Jouy sample, which guests to Monsieur Dior’s residences and the model’s boutique at 30, avenue Montaigne, in Paris will acknowledge from tapestry decorations. As earlier than, the watch has an inverted computerized motion, so the oscillating rotor, right here a fancy twine of flowers, leaves and branches, swings nonchalantly over the dial. Solely 88 might be made.

Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold


A enjoyable truth in regards to the Speedmaster is that it was by no means meant to enter area. Launched 12 years earlier than Buzz Aldrin set foot on the moon sporting one, it had been designed as a driver’s watch, full with a hardy, hand-wound chronograph motion referred to as Calibre 321. Omega recreated that motion three years in the past and now, for the watch’s Sixty fifth-anniversary yr, has put it in a 38.6-millimeter Speedmaster case of its in-house ultra-brilliant Canopus white gold.

Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Yr of the Tiger


Lunar New Yr, which falls on Tuesday, marks the yr of the tiger. To usher within the occasion, Chopard produced an ultrathin limited-edition gown watch embellished with the painstaking Japanese process of urushi lacquer. All 88 dials within the version had been made by Minori Koizumi, a grasp lacquer artist, and have a tiger motif, mentioned to represent fortune, knowledge, intelligence and creativity. They’re framed in 39.5 millimeters of what the model calls “18-karat moral gold.”

Oris Solar Wukong Artist Version


For the primary time, Oris, an impartial identified for watches costing $2,000 to $3,000, has made a watch with a cloisonné enamel dial, a method extra frequent to nice watchmaking (learn: very costly) manufacturers. The design options the underwater palace of the Dragon King, taken from a 1961 Chinese language animation that includes Solar Wukong, the literary character also referred to as The Monkey King, and who seems on the case again. The 72-piece version is powered by Oris’s in-house five-day computerized Calibre 400.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Full Calendar Openface


Switzerland is making fewer watches nowadays, however with no drop in revenues due to the recognition of high-end items akin to Vacheron’s newest full calendar, a modern-looking tackle a traditional complication. Its openwork sapphire dial provides away a few of its mechanical secrets and techniques, which energy a full calendar and a moon part indication. It’s out there in white (pictured) or pink gold, and it isn’t a restricted version.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck


Ulysse Nardin’s eccentric new watch is scheduled for launch Tuesday, the beginning of the brand new lunar yr. Whereas the watch’s aesthetic is straight out of the model’s excessive modern design playbook, its astronomical complication was plucked from a motion designed 40 years in the past. The mannequin signifies what the model calls “the solar’s seen trajectory” and the lunar cycle, and has a tidal chart and a world time operate, which on this extraordinary piece nearly develop into afterthoughts.

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral BigDate


Whisper it, however the family-owned watch firm Carl F. Bucherer is on a quiet and intensely understated march. The model says it’s promoting greater than 30,000 watches a yr nowadays, greater than 5 instances its 2010 gross sales. A lot of that whole is right down to the easygoing Manero, which accounts for greater than 1 / 4 of the model’s output. This blue-dial metal model has small seconds, energy reserve, weekday and “huge” date indications, and comes on a beige cloth strap.

Hermès Heuer H


It says a lot in regards to the success of Hermès’s watch assortment that it has no signature design — any one among numerous its varieties may carry that mantle. One will surely be Philippe Mouquet’s 1996 Heuer H, the H-shaped piece. For the primary time, Hermès has embellished it with coloured stone dials: one in obsidian, one other in aventurine and this rose-gold model in inexperienced malachite. The case and bijou 21-millimeter dial are set with 180 diamonds.

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